For two decades, Oscar del Rivero has been making Jaguar a family affair. On most days you can walk into del Rivero’s restaurant on Grand Avenue in Coconut Grove and see his father, Eduardo “Oso” del Rivero, reading the paper at one of the tables.
His son Diego might be busy in the back prepping ceviche while del Rivero himself – the restaurant’s chef owner – plans his next dining event. Even the restaurant’s colorful murals were painted by del Rivero’s sister, Sofia del Rivero, a local artist.
This week, del Rivero turned a family affair into a community event with live music, free drinks and small bites to celebrate the restaurant’s 20th anniversary. The event, which took place on Thursday, was his way of giving thanks, del Rivero said.
“It’s a gesture to say, ‘Let us give back to the people who have always loved us.’ The message is ‘thank you,’” del Rivero told the Spotlight during a recent interview.
Del Rivero took a look back during same interview, to remember the restaurant’s early days and the support he received from his family.
“I think about all the efforts, about how many people it took to get it together and get it going and it’s impressive, all the love that came into this, by our families and everyone that was working here,” del Rivero said.
Del Rivero and his father first developed the concept for Jaguar back in 2000, when Rivero was a student at Johnson & Wales University.
Five years later, Jaguar opened its doors at 3067 Grand Avenue as a joint venture between a group of close family and friends that included Lalo Durazo, Sergio Durazo, and David Quintero as partners.
Del Rivero signed on as executive chef with a promise of providing sweat equity. Eventually, he bought out his partners, becoming Jaguar’s sole owner in 2018.
Today, he credits his family for the restaurant’s successful launch – and its name.
“Jaguar starts with my father. Jaguar was born with him. He’s always loved the jaguar and what it represents. Many pre-Hispanic cultures have all adapted their own idea of the jaguar, but always it was depicted as a very strong, resilient character.”
The spotted cat, which is native to the Americas – north, south and central – became the perfect symbol for a restaurant showcasing the diversity of Latin American cuisine.
Del Rivero, originally from Mexico City, moved to Miami in 1993. He fell in love with Miami’s diverse array of Latin American cuisine and wanted to spotlight flavors outside of the already popular Mexican and Peruvian profiles.
“The idea of the restaurant was Latin American food because we love Miami,” del Rivero said. “We have a lot of dishes that are Mexican and Peruvian, but since the beginning, it was Latin America. Chimichurri is Argentine and we have dishes from Colombia and from Ecuador.”
In the early days of Jaguar, del Rivero spent much of his time studying the region’s different culinary traditions, frequently traveling to learn about techniques and ingredients alongside local chefs.
This passion for authenticity has translated into a very deliberate approach, balancing the need for quality ingredients with price in order to create an accessible experience.
Never settling for compromises, like switching corvina in his ceviche for the cheaper swai, and for years importing the same brand of Swiss chocolate for Jaguar’s desserts and chilies, del Rivero reasons, “we’re foodies first and entrepreneurs second.”
While Jaguar has endured, the Grove has seen any number of restaurants – including chain establishments and small family-owned spots – come and go over the last 20 years.
Now, a new crop of restaurants – including several singled out for recognition by the Michelin Guide – is helping to define the local food scene. Del Rivero sees these new restaurants as a net positive for the Grove’s food and entertainment landscape.
“It’s good for us to have great restaurants around. It creates a community that people want to come to,” del Rivero said. “So for us, it’s never been a competition.”
He does worry about the lack of customer service at some Grove establishments, however. “I think that’s what hurts the Grove,” he says. And, he’s no fan of restaurants that project an air of exclusivity to fill tables.
“That’s the only thing that maybe I don’t like or don’t agree with, some of the new places where they think they’re too good for the guests,” he adds. “I think those (restaurants) give Coconut Grove a bad name.”
Del Rivero also echoes the concerns of some locals about the Grove’s transition from Bohemian enclave to a more high-end, tourist-focused destination.
“Coconut Grove is supposed to be friendly, it’s supposed to be family, and if you are just out of the pool and you want to grab some food, you should be able to come with a T-shirt or whatever, and a little bit of sand in your hair,” Rivero said.
Those concerns aside, del Rivero says the future looks bright for Jaguar at the 20-year mark. Like its namesake, Jaguar has proven to be resilient in the face of change.
“It’s not like we’re full every day, but I think the numbers have been really good. We cannot complain,” he said.
And, as always, family continues to be the heart of the business.
“My sons are obviously everything for me. So having them close, it’s amazing,” del Rivero said. “And my dad, of course. Every day. Today I ate with him again. Sometimes time goes by very fast and I just want to take advantage.”
